GTBank Fashion Weekend Runway Review by Pepper Chikezie on Collections from Lanre DaSilva Ajayi, Julien Macdonald, Taibo Bacar & others

The runway production was brilliant, lighting, and choreography made one’s appreciation and experience of the shows that much better albeit the breaks/delays in between shows. Each day had three shows to end the retail expo and master classes.

Day 1 had Lanre DaSilva Ajayi present a lovely collection with special moments that came through in her metallic looks, this collection came across a lot more wearable than previous collections for me and showed her versatility and strong command of different fabrics in one collection.

Lanre DaSilva Ajayi

On Day 2, Taibo Bacar hailing from Mozambique presented a strong collection that represented the modern woman’s style and lifestyle needs; wearable pieces that ranged from day to night and even to travel with ultra feminine maxi dresses, chic accessories and impeccable finishing.

Taibo Bacar

Ejiro Amos Tafari also showcased on Day 2 and while her collection was beautiful to watch, there were moments that went on a bit too long, where it seemed Ejiro was showing her hand at all the various ways she could drape and layer with a strict white palette, but it was then broken up with ethereal purple and floral hues and ruffles that made the collection in the end quite pleasurable.

Ejiro Amos Tafiri

Julien MacDonald

Hyper dewy skin models strutted down the runway in skin tight, armour-like illustrations of skins, metallics, fringing and textural artistry. It was somewhat metaphoric of our city – in that no amount of heat will stop you from looking and feeling fierce. The collection was indeed fierce as was the walks of the models, which was the criteria for Julien when he casted the models.

Head Stylist Ugo Mozie said that the models that had a certain movement in their work were casted to walk for Julien. It made sense, the collection exuded confidence and a daring sexiness through revealing cutouts, figure- hugging dresses, intricate beading and embellished knits.

The menswear was no less sexy, in fact Daft Punk would feel right at home with the buckled leather boots, and heavy armored jackets – all very futuristic, rock-star and all very Julien. I am not sure if the explosion – twice – of gold and silver confetti at the end of the show was that necessary but it certainly got everyone excited and made for great pictures and snaps.

Adama Paris

Sierra Leonean designer and founder of Dakar Fashion Week, Adama Paris presented a controlled palette that stuck with the use of a pastel yellow, navy blue and black. The capsule collection was a depiction of an Ancient Soul with a Futuristic Mind which could be seen in the volumous pieces paired with floral prints.

Reminiscent of baby doll silhouettes further emphasized by the over sized white button detail on coats and jackets. There was also a sense of protection due to the foaming effect created using neoprene textures. The collection was simple with no fuss

David Tlale

David Tlale’s collection which he previously showed at MBFW16 in Jo burg titled Labyrinth, began with an all white palette made up of elegant looks that were dreamy and escapists but were also quite heavy through the use of layering, draping in perfectly detailed lace, macramé and sheer skin action.

Models walked out very slow in fact too slow, which was further heightened with the suspense filled show music to ensure that each look was fully absorbed. “I wanted people to pay attention, just focus on the actual workmanship and take people on a journey, nothing spiritual, just art talking to you,” and truly the collection developed into moving art with David Tlale’s Drama stamp of approval.

At first it seemed like calculated splashes of black ink were sent across stunning white dresses, but the reality was the collection was a manifestation of an art collaboration with Joburg Artist Jean Du Plaisir and was translated on overbearing floral motifs, asymmetric folds in dresses, skirts, capes and suits sticking closely to the use of satin. The designer’s menswear moments were just as brilliant with two piece suits, coats and jackets with fringing and draping, definitely a great way to end the show.

Photo Credit: Leke Alabi-Isama | @alabi.isama